Crossing the Gulf of Mexico

Saturday-Sunday, November 29-30, 2014

Finally, after ten days of waiting in Apalachicola, the weather cooperated and we had a window of relatively calm seas and low winds in which to make the crossing of the Gulf of Mexico to the start of the Inter-Coastal Waterway (ICW) at R4, the day marker near Tarpon Springs.

 

Even a pelican came along to say goodbye

We would be cutting across from Apalachicola Bay to Tarpon Springs,
a straight course that kept us about 40 miles off the coast

Our friends on our buddy boat, Roger and Mary, had already left on Friday aboard TA TA to anchor out at Dog Island for the night. We were to meet them at the East Pass the next day. We started our morning with a group prayer and the first boat to leave on Saturday was Seahorse because they had to stop and take on fuel.

Dan and Angie on Seahorse glide off at slack tide

One last look at the Apalachicola waterfront

We joined another boat in our flotilla, Mara Beel, at the bridge to
Apalachicola; Seahorse is on the right

Photo taken from Seahorse of Mara Beel on right and Serenity on left  -
we had just come around the red buoy in the center and were still
in the protection of St. George Island

When we got to East Pass between St. George Island and Dog Island we joined with two boats, TA TA and another boat from Canada, Perfect Balance. The waves were a little daunting when we first got out on the open water but as predicted, the winds eventually died down and the rest of the ride was long but uneventful.

We were a group of five and we stuck close together, with Seahorse in the lead, TA TA following Mara Beel, Perfect Balance off to our starboard and we brought up the rear with our radar keeping an eye on everyone. We drove from the lower helm where we were out of the wind and weather and closer to the center of gravity. We took two hour shifts watching the instruments on the helm and staring out into the night. Everyone made radio contact with each other, checking in on the half hour.

The half moon set around 1 a.m. and it was dark, but seeing all of the running lights on the other boats around us was very reassuring. The first glow of the morning light in the east was a very welcome sight.

John's synopsis of our trip:

Just letting you know we finally crossed the Gulf.  Left Apalachicola, FL Sat am at 10.  Reached the East pass at 1pm and headed for R4 just north of Anclote Key.  At first the seas as we came out of the pass were 3 to 4 feet on our port bow. We rocked and rolled quite a bit.  However I felt the tide was going out and the wind was south east causing this and we had a forecast for calmer winds as the pm went on and into the night.  So after an hour or so the seas gradually settled down so by 5 pm or so we had 2’ or less and after sunset I believe we had 1’ or so.  This lasted until 1 am. The forecast was the winds would pick up then from the southeast and they did, but not above 15mph.  I watched the Tampa weather buoy, about 112 miles NW of Tampa station 42036, for most of the trip and it reported the winds at 1 a.m. increasing to 14 mph with 2’ seas.  We had those 2 footers with an occasional 3 through the dark hours, 1 a.m. to 7 a.m. But the wind stayed pretty much on our port bow so we had very little rolling.  As we got in closer to shore, the seas and wind gradually dropped off. When we got east of Anclote Key and all the way to Marker 1 Marina, Dunedin, FL we had calm seas and light and variable wind.  And it was 75 degrees and clear skies. What a nice ending!

Overall it was an ok crossing. 
We crossed with 4 others all staying within 2 miles. There were at least 8 – 10 other boats also crossing.  So it was a busy night. Our 5 boats checked in on the radio to each other every half hour, and I passed the buoy weather each hour as well.  One of our buddy boats was Ta Ta, 27’ Albin. Their ride was a little rough but they made it just fine.  Kathy and I feel this crossing is our biggest hurdle on this adventure.  We are quite happy to have it behind us and also that it went well. You can wish for calmer seas etc. but for this time of year I think we did quite well.

So today, Monday, we will clean the boat a bit, rent a car and drive home.  I will come back several times to do maintenance etc. on Serenity.  Serenity has served us quite well and deserves a little TLC.  Oh yes, I logged 28.1 engine hours and 194.6 miles on the crossing.  It took us 27 hours to cross from marina to marina, the extra engine hour is due to my having to wait to get to the pump out and refuel when I arrived.

At Marker One Marina we waited for our turn at the fuel dock

We ended our day with a champagne toast before enjoying a dinner which
was put on by a generous and thoughtful couple who had made the
crossing the week before. L-R: Dan, Angie of Seahorse, Mimi, Jim,
of Perfect Balance, Roger, Mary on TA TA, Kathy, John,
Becky, Mark from Mara Beel, Jean & Mel of Dovekie

 After a good night's sleep we packed up a car and made the 2 hour drive to our home. It was very hard to say good bye to all the wonderful people we bonded with on the loop but we were welcomed by a sweet sign on our front door from our great neighbors.

We will be taking a break during the holidays and are excited about having our family gather for Christmas week. We are at about the halfway point on our great Loop Trip. Check back in to this blog when we resume our  journey in mid-January and head for the Florida Keys.

 

Captain’s Log November 29 & 30, 2014

Departed: Water Street Hotel and Marina at Apalachicola, FL 10:00 a.m. Saturday
Engine hours: 28.1 hrs. Total for trip: 495.6 hrs.
Actual hours: 27 hr.
Miles covered 194.4   Total for trip: 3463
Arrived: Mile Marker One Marina, Dunedin, FL 1:00 p.m. Sunday
Wx: Calm, cool morning on departure, see above for details

 

 

Anticipation in Apalachicola

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Thanksgiving in the panhandle of Florida

It wasn't as warm as we had hoped Florida would be, but we weren't trudging through snow either! We wanted to do something special for Thanksgiving, considered a pot luck, but there just was no place to have it - plus that would mean some of us had to cook. We finally called around and found Caroline's restaurant that could seat 8 to 12. Word got out and soon we had 20 boaters wanting to attend and at last count - about an hour before our reservation, that number was up to 26! The restaurant accommodated us - many thanks to our friend Mary from TA TA who called to change the number so many times that she had a personal relationship with the hostess.

At Thanksgiving dinner with Mark and Becky
 

We were seated out on an enclosed porch at tables for four. We sat with the crew from M/V Mara Beel who had just arrived and are joining our flotilla to cross the Gulf to Dunedin.

The crews of 12 boats waiting at Apalachicola to cross the Gulf
 

We all exchanged stories, took lots of photos and heard some good advice for making the long crossing. It was great to see some old friends and make some new ones. We never know when we might meet again somewhere along the loop.

So thankful for the great adventure we are having together
 

Went here for lunch one day - right next to the marina on Scipio Creek
the sign says "Beer/Wine & Hard Likker"
 

Friday, November 28, 2014 - Christmas comes to Apalachicola

Three boats left this morning from our marina. TA TA went to anchor at Dog Island and we will meet back up with them tomorrow on our way out through the pass, and the other two are going to "bounce" around the Big Bend going to Steinhatchee first and then to Cedar Key and finally to Tarpon Springs.

Trawler Beach House backing out into the creek and headed for the
Alligator Bay anchorage on their way to Steinhatchee
 

We are encouraged with the weather forecast and worked today on getting everything stowed away on the boat and fastened down in case it gets rough on the crossing. If the weather holds we will leave in the morning on Saturday and arrive in Dunedin on the west coast about 28 hours later.
Before that, however, we had to walk into town and welcome Santa. This is the only place we know of where he comes by Shrimp Boat!

Here are a few colorful pictures from our day:
 

Fisherman's Christmas Tree
 

We are getting into the spirit of the season!
 

Here comes Santa with two of his elves!
 

Which way should we go?
 

We could use a new life preserver for the boat
 

Crab trap markers - we don't want to hit one of these on the crossing
 

Potential boots for a Florida gardener
 

Our stay here in Apalachicola has been great but we need to get to Dunedin where the boat will be fairly close to our home and we will take a little break while we celebrate Christmas with our family and friends. It's time to put a few more miles on the engines and put our chart plotter, auto pilot and radar to good use! 

 

Pensacola to Apalachicola

Friday, November 14, 2014

Bright sunshine makes a world of difference after a day of cold wind and rain. It was still cold and windy but we were ready to move on. The wind was from the north and as long as we were headed south out of Pensacola Bay we were fine, meeting up with our travel companions for the day on Raydiance.

But when we turned to the east to enter the ICW the waves came on our beam and we rolled a bit. Suddenly everything that wasn’t fastened down or already on the floor, landed there. It was a good shakedown, literally, to remind us how we have to prepare for rough conditions.

Approaching the bridge to Pensacola Beach -
yes, those are whitecaps
 

 The rest of the trip was uneventful and pleasant as we went through the ICW to the town of Fort Walton Beach. We headed up the bay and spent the night at the small marina at Eglin AFB at Bens Lake. Raydiance came with us and we played a domino game of Mexican Train after dinner.

Captain’s Log November 14, 2014

Departed: Pensacola Shipyard, FL 7:50 a.m.
Engine hours: 7.1 hrs.
Actual hours: 6 hr. 20 min.
Miles covered 50.06   
Arrived: Bens Lake, Eglin AFB Marina 2:10 p.m.
Nice cruise though a little rolling crossing Pensacola Bay, but got a Blue Angels send off when they flew right over our boat!
Wx: Very cool morning 34 degrees, clear, wind north 15-20 – decreased to 10 while docking at destination

Saturday, November 15 - Tuesday 18, 2014

We left by ourselves the next morning because our friends weren't going very far and they wanted to leave later. We were headed for Panama City and as we got in the bay we met another boat, Sundowner, with John and Karen on board, which was going there also. It turned out to be a very nice day and we had a great cruise.

Leaving Bens Lake just after sunrise
 

 

We have entered the "Big Ditch" part of the ICW on the way to
Panama City
 

 Captain’s Log: November 15, 2014

Departed: Bens Lake, Eglin AFB Marina, FL 7:00 a.m.
Engine hours: 8.1 hr. – 62.91 statute miles
Actual hours: 8 hr.   
Arrived: Panama City Marina, FL 3:00 p.m.
Wx: 35 degrees at departure, clear skies, NE wind 1-2’ quartering on the bow. Day gradually warmed to 65 degrees, wind died, skies stayed clear.

The day after we got to Panama City a cold front went through and we experienced some of the coldest weather on the trip. We stayed two days longer than we had planned but there was no hurry as There was no opportunity for us to cross the Gulf yet due to the high winds.

Our mascot, Chris Croaker, had to wear a scarf when it got so cold
 

The dock fingers at Panama City Marina were very narrow and I always felt as if I was walking the plank - not to mention the huge piling you had to get around to get to the end.

The wind was blowing so hard that the flag was right out straight and
we really had to bundle up
 

After dinner at the Mexican restaurant - dressed for the walk back
 

All of us transients at the marina decided to go out to a local restaurant for dinner. With the wind chill it was a cold walk into the old part of town but the spicy food and good company warmed us up.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

It was still cold when we left Panama City, but the winds had died down and we took the ICW all the way into Apalachicola.

We encountered a house being propelled along
 

Captain’s Log: November 19, 2014

Departed: Panama City 7:05 a.m.
Engine hours: 7.8
Actual hours: 7 hrs.  55 min
Nautical miles covered: 61.52
Arrived: Apalachicola, FL, Water Street Hotel & Marina 3:00 p.m.
Wx: cool, clear, on departure, 30 degrees, winds NE at 10- nice cruise, no issues, had tide pushing us most of day til last 2 hours

A few photos from the marina at Apalachicola:

Before sunrise, taken from the bow of our boat
with our neighbor's dinghy ready on it's davits
 

Reeds across the river at sunrise
 

A shrimp boat pulling into the river on a very calm morning
 

There are lots of pelicans nearby
 

Today is November 23 and we are still waiting for a break in the weather with calm seas so we can cross the 170 miles over the Gulf to Dunedin on the Florida west coast. We plan to do it in a 22 hour overnight trip so conditions have to be ideal.

The first couple of days were nice here and we did a lot of walking and exploring. We are in a lovely place in Apalachicola, have been eating good seafood, more of our looper friends are gathering and we are trying to make the best use of our time. It looks like we will be here at least four more days, through Thanksgiving, and as soon as this stormy weather passes we will be on our way.

Today a line of thunder storms passed through and there was a tornado watch but nothing came of it. Will keep watching the gulf weather buoys and wind reports and we hope to have a whole flotilla when we leave.

 

 

Starting the Gulf Intra-Coastal Waterway

Thursday, November 6, 2014

The water couldn’t have been smoother when we left Fairhope! It was like glass almost all the way down Mobile Bay. After about 20 miles we were on the Gulf Intra-coastal waterway for the first time.

First ICW marker included a welcoming committee
 

Coming off Mobile Bay into the ICW channel
 

A trip through this area wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Lulu’s, which is very well known and right on the waterway. Lulu is Jimmy Buffett’s sister and she has had this restaurant for a while. We had to stop and try a "cheeseburger in paradise.” It was a popular place and we enjoyed listening to Jimmy’s music on the sound system. 

J & K with Julie and Stu at Lulu's
 

Small craft watches were in effect for the night, so although we had hoped to anchor out, we are in a very secure marina at Orange Beach – in a covered slip. We will sleep well tonight!
Captain’s Log November 6, 2014

Departed: Eastern Shore Marina, Fairhope, AL  6:55 a.m.
Engine hours: 6.8 hrs.
Actual hours: 8 hr. 20 min.
Miles covered: 48.2   
Arrived: Orange Beach Marina 3:15 p.m.
Stopped at mid-day at LuLu’s, tied up and had lunch
Wx: great for first part – no wind but smoggy – then cloudy with North wind – scattered showers  around but none were where we were

Friday through Thursday, November 7- 13, 2014

It was windy overnight and was still blowing when we got up but it was forecast to drop off. After conferring with our friends on Meander we decided to get underway and go as far as we could to try to make a gulf crossing by Monday or Tuesday.

At Orange Beach marina we were in a covered slip and in with a lot
of serious deep sea fishing boats
 

 

Some colorful condos along the Alabama waterway
 

We made it to Florida! The condos suddenly stopped
and the beaches began.

 

So as we were cruising merrily along the intra-coastal waterway toward Pensacola, John did one of his routine engine checks and found anti-freeze under the starboard engine. This was not a good sign – something was leaking. After troubleshooting he couldn’t find the source and, fearing the worst, started calling marinas to find a mechanic. Limping on one engine we made our way into the bay. We are very thankful for our buddy boat, Meander, who stayed with us and led the way until we found a safe haven. They then continued on their way and we will certainly miss them.

We were very fortunate that Pensacola is a big boating area and we found a place that is Volvo certified. We ended up at Pensacola Shipyard in Bayou Chico; the mechanic came after work in the evening and determined that it was the coolant pump which was leaking and needed to be replaced. A fairly straightforward repair but it was Friday, everything is closed over the weekend, so the new part may be here on Tuesday, mechanic is booked for the week but may be able to do it “on overtime”…so we don’t know how long we will be here, but… could be much worse.

This opened up a wonderful opportunity for us to rent a car and go visit some places where John did his military training and was commissioned as a Naval officer 45 years ago.
 

John remembers the drill sergeant teaching his AOC class how to march
along this seawall in the hot July sun in 1969.
 

This amazing place brought back a lot of memories! What a
coincidence - John's squadron at NAS Oceana was the Black Aces.
 

I got to sink my toes into the soft white sand at Pensacola Beach.

We heard that on Monday and Tuesday, the 10th and 11th, between 15 and 20 boats made the gulf crossing from Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs. Our friends on Meander were among them along with many others we have met along the way. We will have to wait for the next weather window. Meanwhile, on the evening of Veteran's Day, we attended a wonderful musical review at the Pensacola Little Theater which included a rousing medley of military anthems followed by various show tunes. Beautiful voices - good time.

As it turned out, the parts came in and work on our engines was done on Wednesday, the 12th, during regular time. By sunset we had two new pumps, belts and shut-off valves. We decided to stay here one more day to finish up some errands and return the rental car. The weather turned cold and nasty and it really doesn't feel like boating weather.

Captain’s Log: November 7, 2014
Departed: Orange Beach Marina, FL 8:25 a.m.
Engine hours: 5.1 hr. – 31.45 statute miles
Actual hours: 4 hr. 55 min.  
Arrived: Due to engine antifreeze leak on stbd engine we stopped at the Pensacola Shipyard at 1:20 p.m.
Wx: Cool, sunny and breezy with winds 10-15 mph out of the north

  

Last Days on the River and into Mobile Bay

Saturday, November 1, 2014

It was another early morning and cold for Alabama as we left the Kingfisher Marina at Demopolis Yacht Basin. We had delayed a day because of the high wind forecast and we knew that we would have to anchor out. We are fair weather anchoring boaters and the winds were supposed to calm down eventually.

We went through the Demopolis Lock and down the surprisingly pleasant waterway and stopped at Baschi Creek for the night. The creek was narrow and wooded but we tied up bow to stern with Stu and Julie on Meander and there was just enough room. Stu even got in his dinghy and tied up to trees on each side to make sure we stayed in the middle.

Stu on his dinghy and Julie on Meander - getting ready to tie up to shore
 

 

You really get close when you raft up with someone - it is almost sunset
- note Meander's colorful fender covers
 

We accepted an invitation to have dinner together on Meander - Stu is a very good chef!

Captain’s Log November 1, 2014

Departed: Demopolis Yacht Basin 6:53 a.m.
Engine hours: 9 hrs.
Actual hours: 8 hr. 20 min.
Miles covered: 70.57   
Arrived: MM 165 at Baschi Creek Anchorage 3:15 p.m.
Locked through the Demopolis lock, no issues
Wx: departed cold 37 degrees, clear windy, 10 – 15 kts.  Wind died down in evening, quiet night

Sunday, November 2, 2014

We had a very quiet but chilly night. We knew there was a freeze warning but were surprised to find ice on our swim platform. We must not be far enough south yet! The anchor came up and off we went – another day on the river and another anchorage.
Today took us through the last lock on the river system – the last lock until we get to the Dismal Swamp in N. Carolina next spring! We went farther than we planned and with daylight savings we lost the sun earlier, but found another anchorage at Three Rivers cut off and again tied up with Meander.  

The Coffeeville Lock - our last one for months!
 

The shoreline started to get sandier and we were now in salt water
 

This tow had a colorful pink and blue paint job. It was named the
Thelma Parker II
 

Captain’s Log: November 3, 2014

Departed: Anchorage at Bashi Creek 7:45 a.m.
Engine hours: 9.6 hr. – 82.82 statute miles
Actual hours: 9 hr. 35 min.  
Arrived: Anchorage at 3 Rivers 4:20 p.m.
Wx: Cool AM, frost & ice on deck – departed in wispy fog. Clear – reached a high in the 60s, sunny.

Monday, November 03, 2014

Another day on the river and another anchorage – the greenery is starting to look more tropical with cypress and palmetto. We saw our first alligator today! We rafted up again with Meander and Sundowner was anchored nearby with Karen and John on board with Captain Jack, their boat cat.
It was a spectacular day but the camera battery died so no pictures.

Captain’s Log: November 3, 2014

Departed: 3 Rivers anchorage 8:10 a.m.
Engine hours: 6.9
Actual hours: 7 hrs.  55 min
Nautical miles covered: 62.62
Arrived: Anchorage at mile marker 12 – Tensaw River cut off in Big Briar Creek, 2:00 p.m.
Wx: nice, warmer, winds light and variable, sunny

Tuesday,  November 4, 2014

This morning it didn't take long to leave the tropical wetland and enter the industrial area just north of Mobile. Before we knew it we were entering the shipping channel and seeing lots of ships and activity.

Entering Mobile with Meander in the lead
 

One of two new stealth ships being built for the Navy
 

We went between two huge tankers but only one was moving;
I call this a Meander sandwich
 

Crossing the big bay to Fairhope was very smooth with almost no wind. We were happy to arrive at port, stopping at the fuel dock for the necessary fill up and pump-out. Today was another milestone - we passed the 3,000 mile mark for this trip - we are almost halfway through the Great Loop!

We stayed an extra day here and on my birthday, the 5th, I spent a wonderful time with two friends wandering and shopping in the beautiful city of Fairhope. We went out to lunch and found a few bargains and then collected our captains and had a great dinner at the Grand Hotel. It would be nice to linger here and explore some more but Florida is calling!

Julie, Karen and I shopped 'til we dropped.
What a day!        Photo courtesy of Julie C.

 

Captains Log: November 4, 2014

Departed: Big Briar Creek at Tensaw River Cutoff mm 12, 7:20 a.m.
Engine hours: 4.1  Actual: 4 hr 55 min
Distance: 28.97 miles
Arrived: West Shore Marina at Fairhope, AL 12:15 p.m.
Tow traffic not too bad, anchored outside marina waiting to get to fuel dock - have traveled 3,000 miles so far on this trip!
Wx: Clear calm