Low Key at Boca Chica

Thursday, February 12, 2015

It seems as if we have been on island time since we have arrived in Boca Chica, as in: “Time for lunch?” “Is this Tuesday or Wednesday?” Or, as Dame Violet, Dowager Countess on Downton Abby famously said, “What’s a weekend?” It’s been a very laid back week and a half but I knew it was time to post a blog when one of our Looper friends said he had to look at other boater’s blog to see what we were doing!

We have been enjoying our days here in the Keys and keeping it low key. Our rental car takes us into Key West when we want to brave the traffic and we have located all of the important places such as the commissary, West Marine, Sloppy Joe’s Bar and a small beach. We have found that beaches here are rare and the sand is usually shipped in from other sandier locations. The Keys are protected by a coral reef so there is no surf here to pound the shore and create the fine sand found on other coasts.

 


Our mascot, Christopher Croaker, is chillin' at the little beach at Boca Chica -
bridge to Stock Island and Key West is in the background
 

 

Our slip at the marina - Serenity is just to the right of the first tall sailboat
 

 

One of the many roosters on Key West
 

A mama, her calf and a larger manatee were hanging out by
the dock one day
 

We are settling into the yin and yang of the place and have learned that salt water is very hard on anything that is metal. It takes very little exposure for rust to start. On the other hand, spiders don’t survive in the salty environment so we rarely see one. Any fresh water boater knows what a nuisance they can be.

The wind blows almost constantly and it has been a rough season on the Gulf and the Atlantic. The residents here say that the wind has its advantages because it keeps mosquitoes and no see-ums at bay - haven't been bothered by those so far.

We are on a Naval Air Station so we are a little isolated and the amenities are basic but more than adequate with showers, laundry and Navigator's Bar and Grill where we can order lunch or dinner. It is very pleasant here and we are enjoying an air show almost every day. It is a little loud at times but the roar of the jets is music to our ears – the sweet sound of Naval aviation!

Yesterday we had small separate adventures. Our friends, Martha and George, asked John to help get their boat, Aunt Aggie, through the outside channel from Stock Island to Marathon. John was happy for the experience and he answered with a quick, “Yes.” They had tried to go out a few days before but the winds were too much and they turned back to the shelter of the marina. Martha had enough of rough seas and so, when the better day arrived, John and George set off on the boat and Martha and I had a splendid day together having lunch by the beach and then driving Route 1 from Boca Chica to Marathon. It was a win-win for all and a really beautiful day!

The dinghy dock at Boot Key Harbor in Marathon -
there were hundreds of boats here on moorings and at anchor
 

 

George and John have successfully left Aunt Aggie at anchor
and have arrived at the dinghy dock.
 

 

George and Martha are ready to get back on their boat,
and meanwhile John is acting up - time to go home to ours!
 

We have extended our stay here until the middle of March – there still is lots to see and do! Just got back from Key West where we had our first experience with the night life. We went with some of our new boat neighbors and had a great time listening to the live music and dancing. John says we may never leave!

At "The Bull" on lively Duval Street
 

 

Onward to the Keys

Thursday, January 29, 2015

After 9 days it was time to leave Cape Coral. The winds had died down and the next couple of days looked good for our cruise down to the Florida Keys. We departed the yacht basin which is on the Caloosahatchee River following our boating companions for the day, Tom and Linda on Raydiance. Soon we were approaching Ft. Myers Beach and leaving the ICW.

Raydiance out in front on a beautiful day
 

Jasper's Bait Shop and waterfront property
 

The winds calmed down and it was a pleasant trip with only a few boat wakes to deal with. Things did go flying across the salon at one point.

Photo of Esplanade from Internet - this was our view at anchorage
 

We followed Raydiance in through narrow channels to Smokehouse Bay in front of Esplanade Marina at Marco Island, an impressive array of condos with shops and restaurants below. Raydiance dropped anchor and we tied up to them. We rode ashore with them in their dingy, wandered around and listened to the music, watched the dancing and met for dinner. It was a really lovely evening.

Captain’s Log January 29

Departed: Cape Coral Yacht Basin, 7:35 a.m.
Engine hours: 7.1 hrs.
Actual hours: 8 hr.
Miles covered 52.34   Total for trip: 3672
Arrived: Smokehouse Bay anchorage near Esplanade Marina at Marco Island, 3:30 p.m.
Wx: clear 47 degrees rising to 70, N-NE winds 10-15, wind changed to east. We had 2-3’ quartering on the beam. Took on fuel and pumped out at Rose Marina, Marco. Traveled with Raydiance

Friday, January 30, 2015

After a quiet night in the bay we let loose our lines from Raydiance and we snaked our way out through the channel and down a long path through the Ten Thousand Islands.

Colorful pilings on the Coon River in 10,000 Islands
 

Saw lots of manatee zone signs but no manatees - we always go slow speed
 

 The weather was beautiful out on the Gulf but the forecast was for winds to pick up the next day. We decided to push on to an anchorage at Little Shark River, hoping the forecast would improve for our long trip out toward Key West. We parted from our friends on Radiance when they decided to stop at Indian Pass and motor up to Everglades City. John set our course south and at one point we were about 8 miles off shore, but the water was fairly shallow all the way. We encountered fields of crab traps with the markers strung across the water in rows of several dozen, crisscrossing to make fields of hundreds stretched as far as the eye can see. The conditions were such that we could spot them easily and since they were 100 to 150 feet apart we were able to slip through the gaps.

Crab pot marking location of trap - we stay away to keep it's line from
wrapping around our props
 

We also saw dolphins playing and leaping ahead of us when we first entered the open water. There were quite a few compared to the usual two or three. John was excited to see a sea turtle that he said must have been 4 feet in length. As soon as it neared the boat it dived and he didn’t see it again.

What we saw for most of the day - the water was a beautiful blue!

When we reached Little Shark River we entered Everglades Park and there was nothing to see but mangroves, brush and a few dead trees. Several other boats were already anchored there, including sailboats and two Gold Looper boats.

At anchor in the Little Shark River it was very dark and quiet. As other times in the Gulf at night, I have heard a little clicking noise against the hull. I think these sounds may have been small bits of debris in the water carried by the current but I prefer to imagine that the sounds are caused by little hard shelled creatures tapping against the boat as they swim by. This gives me the feeling that we are experiencing part of the life that is all around us.

Sunset at Shark River - the color lasted for a long time
 

 Captain’s Log: January 30

Departed: Anchorage in Smokehouse Bay at Marco Island 7:50 a.m.
Engine hours: 8.6 hr. – 63.11 statute miles
Actual hours: 8 hr.  55 min.
Arrived: Little Shark River anchorage at Everglades 3:45 pm.
Wx: clear, 55 degrees, winds gradually picked up from north to 10-12 kts,  following seas, dodged a lot of crab traps

Saturday, January 31, 2015

At six a.m. we listened for weather – especially the winds – to see if we would go or wait out the winds for the day. The consensus among others who were on the portable VHF radios was that the winds would be doable if they continued from the north. Several boats had come in to the river to anchor overnight including 3 Ranger Tugs, for a total of 15 boats.

Sailboats love the wind, but I thought that if the Ranger Tugs could go, so could we – and they were already leaving! Everyone started pulling anchors at first light. The two gold loopers lead the way, we followed along with some of the sailboats and looking behind as we left the channel we had a string of boats taking their turn.

Low tide at daybreak on the Little Shark River
 

This was another day of seeing nothing but sea and sky and watching for crab pots. After about 4 hours we could see the outline of Seven Mile Bridge west of Marathon Key at the horizon. It seemed forever before we reached it.

Bridge ahoy!
 

It was another 4 hours after going through the bridge to go the distance out to the western part of the Keys. The wind was still at our stern and John sped up a bit to smooth out the ride. When we finally reached the channel to Boca Chica we had to turn into the wind and felt it's strength. We both commented, "We have been out in this!?"

We found our slip where we will stay for a month and are reveling in the realization that we have reached another milestone. It is warm sunny and breezy here and we have a lovely view of turquoise waters, palm trees and grass roofed shelters at the picnic area. We are renting a car to explore the area and you may not hear from us for a while. This is truly paradise. Even though we are getting the jet noise from the Navy jets, John is loving it as he remembers many years ago being one of those pilots taking off and landing at Naval Air Station Key West.



Sunset sky over Boca Chica - what a view!
 

Captain’s Log: Jan 31, 2015

Departed: Little Shark River anchorage 6:50 a.m.
Arrival: Boca Chica Marina, NAS Key West 4:15 p.m.
Engine hours: 9.6/541.3 since beginning of trip
Actual hours: 9 hrs., 30 min
Miles: 85.49/total miles on trip 3821
Wx: clear, NE winds 10-15, Seas 1-2’ with occasional 3 footers. OK ride to 7 Mile Bridge, turned west, and wind changed to east 20-25mph but smooth ride throughout
Traveled with Attitude Changer and Nearly Perfect until we passed under bridge

Venice to Cape Coral, FL

Sunday, January 18, 2015

We would have liked to stay at Fisherman's Wharf and explore the area a little longer but it was a good day and we set off in late morning. Cruising from Venice to Gasparilla Marina at Placida, FL. was really beautiful as we passed by one grand home after another. We had 4 bridges to go under but we had enough clearance to pass through all but the last which was the swing bridge at Boca Grande. We were met by our friends Dan and Angie on Seahorse who helped us tie up – it is always great to see other Loopers!

Birds roosting on a mangrove covered island
 

One of many beautiful homes
 

Nice to see our old friends the white pelicans
 

We chuckle every time we see birds on a sandbar. We had heard of boats going off the channel and running aground. Our friend Mark always advised, "Don't go where you see birds walking!"
 

Captain’s Log January 18

Departed: Fisherman’s Wharf Marina, FL 8:05 a.m.
Engine hours: 3.4 hrs.
Actual hours: 3 hr. 10 min
Miles covered 24.05    Total for trip: 3577
Arrived: Gasparilla Marina, Placida, FL 11:15 p.m.
Wx: clear skies, temps in low 60s rising to 70, went through several bridges, one had to open and our timing was great – no waiting! Engine checks good – Serenity is purring like a kitten! Traveled with Young at Heart

The fishing boat next to us had a noisy osprey on the top roof
 

Monday, January 19, 2015

Short cruise today – the sun was shining and the winds were forecast to die down in the afternoon. We left for Cayo Costa in late morning and did encounter some rollers on Charlotte Bay. The water calmed down as we neared the island and we dropped our anchor in Pelican Bay. The water was shallow and we had lots of company.

Went for a walk with Dan and Angie before we left Gasparilla -
we have seen lots of decorative flamingos but no real ones yet
 

We dropped our dingy and fired up the little 2.5 horsepower propane motor and went  to Cayo Costa, an isolated island state park that can only be reached by boat. There were families loading and unloading camping gear on the small ferry that runs back and forth. We hitched a ride on an open wagon for the mile long jaunt to the beach and it felt good to sink my feet in the sand once again.

Angie snapped this picture of Dan and Kathy barefootin' in the Gulf
 

Later our friends on our accompanying boats gathered on our upper deck to toast Brenda and Glenn who would be crossing their wake the next day. A sailboat pulled in beside us and we recognized Last Mango with John and Karen who had been docked near us at Marker One Marina. They lowered their sailing tender and rowed over – Last Mango hadn’t see Glenn and Brenda since Grafton, IL so they had a warm reunion.

Glenn and Brenda are new Gold Loopers - crossing their wake
at Cayo Costa
 

Dan and Angie joined us on Serenity at the anchorage
 

Late afternoon sun is delightful!
 

Captain’s Log: January 19, 2015

Departed: Gasparilla Marina 11:00 a.m.
Engine hours: 1.5 hr. – 12.40 statute miles
Actual hours: 1.5 hr.   
Arrived: Pelican Bay anchorage at Cayo Costa 12:30
Wx: clear, windy NE 10- 15, calm later in the day after we were at anchor
Traveled with Young at Heart and Seahorse

January 20, 2015 - Tuesday

We had a pleasant night at anchor but the red sky in the morning was not such a good omen. The skies were overcast and it looked like rain. Our three boat armada cruised out the shallow and narrow channel. I heard a splashing noise and looked back to see a dolphin following us almost under the swim platform in the prop wash. I don’t know if it was slapping its tail in pleasure or to let us know it was there, but it followed us for quite a way.

John captured this early sunrise while the other boats still
had their anchor lights on
 

Later we met a ferry boat taking passengers to one of the islands and the passengers were all on the upper deck looking down the side. There were dolphins playing and doing flips in their wake. Entertaining!

This ferry seems to be listing to starboard!
The dolphins were too quick for me to capture.
 

So glad to see John's step-mom, Jean
 

Soon after we were tied up at Cape Coral Yacht Basin, Jean, John's stepmother, arrived to greet us and lend us her car while we were there. Of course, she had some errands to run - like shopping for a new sofa - so we were glad to drive her and give lots of advice along the way.

Captain’s Log: Jan 20, 2014

Departed: Pelican Bay anchorage at Cayo Costa 9:00 a.m.
Arrival: Cape Coral Yacht Basin 1:15 p.m.
Engine hours: 4.5/516 since beginning of trip
Actual hours: 4 hrs., 15 min Miles: 27.58Wx: overcast on departure, slight sprinkles, SE winds 5-10, Gentle cruise, no issues, traveled with Seahorse and Young at Heart.

January 20 - 28 in Cape Coral

We got to see our Vermont boating friends, Doug & Laura, and their
beautiful new home in Ft. Myers
 

Gold Looper celebration on Young at Heart
Steve & Gina, Kathy & John, Mark & Becky and Brenda & Glenn
 

Royal palms lining a street near the marina
 

We are waiting out some stormy and windy weather here in Cape Coral. If things improve as  predicted we will leave on Wednesday, Jan 28, for Marco Island and then the Keys. Meanwhile we will enjoy our visit here!

 

Great Loop Resumes

Saturday - Wednesday, January 10-14, 2015

After the Holidays and a wonderful visit from our kids and grandkids over Christmas, and seeing many of our Villages friends and neighbors, it was time to get back on Serenity and continue south on our journey.

Our daughter and our son arrived in Florida with their families to
play in the warm sun
 

Three generations of love - happy day! Beth, Kathy and Iris
 

John donned his Santa hat for the special day - with grandson, Ethan
 

When we had been back on the boat for just a day or so it seemed like we had never left.
We cast off our lines from Marker One Marina at Dunedin in early afternoon as the tide was rising. We traveled with two other boats and made the short trip down the channel to Indian Rocks Beach and stopped at the Holiday Inn resort for two days. Even though we had been on salt water since we left the last lock on the Tenn-Tom Waterway, the realization struck us that for most of the rest of the trip we will be watching not only the winds and weather but the changing tides and planning accordingly. The good side of that is that we should have plenty of opportunities to walk along the beaches and observe lots of shorebirds.

Finally moving again just south of Dunedin
 

Photo op at the Holiday Inn at Indian Rocks Beach
 

Little green heron perches on a line
 

Captain’s Log January 10, 2015

Departed: Marker 1 Marina, Dunedin, FL 1:00 p.m. Saturday
Engine hours: 2.1 hrs.
Actual hours: 2 hr.
Miles covered 14.4    Total for trip: 3463
Arrived: Holiday Inn Marina, Indian Rocks Beach, FL 3:00 p.m.
Wx: winds north at 10, clear skies, short cruise down ICW to Holiday Harborside Marina. A little tough backing into a very narrow slip due to current and wind, bumped the swim platform, but we made it. Traveled with Mara Beel and Seahorse.

Monday, January 12, 2015

We went for an early swim in the Holiday Inn pool and couldn’t believe how warm it was!.The pool manager came by and checked the temp for us and found it at 91 degrees! Someone has accidentally, or on purpose, turned the heater way up. We did a few laps but it was really too hot – never thought I would say that about a swimming pool.

Glenn, John and Mark reminiscing and making plans
 

Later we learned that some looper friends, Glenn and Brenda, had arrived to say hello and to get back on their boat which was parked at Madeira Beach. We decided to join them the next day and then travel with them because they were also headed for the Keys.

Mark on Mara Beel unhooks power for departure
 

Captain’s Log: January 12, 2015

Departed: Indian Rocks Beach 10:00 a.m.
Engine hours: 1.2 hr. – 7.46 statute miles
Actual hours: 1.5 hr.   
Arrived: Madeira Beach, private dock, 11:30
Wx: clear, windy s 5-10, started raining as we tied up.
Owner of slips, “Happy” Gilmore, usually only rents for long term boat storage, but gave us a good rate for two nights. Traveled with Mara Beel.

January 13 – 14, Tuesday – Wednesday

Another walk on along the shore at Madeira Beach, gathering together to make travel plans - it was so nice to be able to take our time and not feel rushed. Our trio of boats left the little channel on Wednesday morning heading for Bradenton, FL. Once on the Manatee River we separated when we stopped at our former Navy friends’ home and parked at their empty dock while the other two went on to Twin Dolphin’s Marina.

We passed the Sunshine Skyway bridge at the entrance to Tampa Bay,
but didn't go under
 

It was great to see our old friends again after several years! We invited them to join the other looper boaters and us for our late afternoon cocktail hour on Mara Beel at Twin Dolphins. They reciprocated the following night by having us all over for dinner. Everyone hit it off and we all had a great time.

Captain’s Log: Jan 14, 2014

Departed: Private dock in Madeira Beach, FL 9:28 a.m.
Arrival: Palmetto, FL on the Manatee River, private dock 1:30 p.m.
Engine hours: 4/503.8 since beginning of trip
Actual hours: 4 hrs. Miles: 27.58/Total miles on trip 503.8
Wx: overcast skies, wind NE 5-10, no issues, encountered a few rollers as we crossed Tampa Bay. Traveled with Mara Beel and Young at Heart.

Wednesday, November 15, 16, 2014

Our home on the Manatee River in the back yard of our friends' house
 

The Ringling art museum and mansion in Sarasota
were well worth the visit
 

We all went out to dinner with our wonderful hosts, Pete and Sparkie

 

 Captain’s Log: January 17, 2015

Departed: Private dock, Palmetto, FL 8:40 a.m.
Arrived: Venice, FL, Fisherman’s Wharf Marina 2:10 p.m.
Engine hours: 5.5
Actual hours: 5 hrs.  5 min
Miles covered: 42.33
Wx: cool, clear, east wind, left Manatee River, crossed lower Tampa Bay & joined Gulf ICW Afternoon temp 70 degrees, no issues, traveling with Young at Heart

  

 

Crossing the Gulf of Mexico

Saturday-Sunday, November 29-30, 2014

Finally, after ten days of waiting in Apalachicola, the weather cooperated and we had a window of relatively calm seas and low winds in which to make the crossing of the Gulf of Mexico to the start of the Inter-Coastal Waterway (ICW) at R4, the day marker near Tarpon Springs.

 

Even a pelican came along to say goodbye

We would be cutting across from Apalachicola Bay to Tarpon Springs,
a straight course that kept us about 40 miles off the coast

Our friends on our buddy boat, Roger and Mary, had already left on Friday aboard TA TA to anchor out at Dog Island for the night. We were to meet them at the East Pass the next day. We started our morning with a group prayer and the first boat to leave on Saturday was Seahorse because they had to stop and take on fuel.

Dan and Angie on Seahorse glide off at slack tide

One last look at the Apalachicola waterfront

We joined another boat in our flotilla, Mara Beel, at the bridge to
Apalachicola; Seahorse is on the right

Photo taken from Seahorse of Mara Beel on right and Serenity on left  -
we had just come around the red buoy in the center and were still
in the protection of St. George Island

When we got to East Pass between St. George Island and Dog Island we joined with two boats, TA TA and another boat from Canada, Perfect Balance. The waves were a little daunting when we first got out on the open water but as predicted, the winds eventually died down and the rest of the ride was long but uneventful.

We were a group of five and we stuck close together, with Seahorse in the lead, TA TA following Mara Beel, Perfect Balance off to our starboard and we brought up the rear with our radar keeping an eye on everyone. We drove from the lower helm where we were out of the wind and weather and closer to the center of gravity. We took two hour shifts watching the instruments on the helm and staring out into the night. Everyone made radio contact with each other, checking in on the half hour.

The half moon set around 1 a.m. and it was dark, but seeing all of the running lights on the other boats around us was very reassuring. The first glow of the morning light in the east was a very welcome sight.

John's synopsis of our trip:

Just letting you know we finally crossed the Gulf.  Left Apalachicola, FL Sat am at 10.  Reached the East pass at 1pm and headed for R4 just north of Anclote Key.  At first the seas as we came out of the pass were 3 to 4 feet on our port bow. We rocked and rolled quite a bit.  However I felt the tide was going out and the wind was south east causing this and we had a forecast for calmer winds as the pm went on and into the night.  So after an hour or so the seas gradually settled down so by 5 pm or so we had 2’ or less and after sunset I believe we had 1’ or so.  This lasted until 1 am. The forecast was the winds would pick up then from the southeast and they did, but not above 15mph.  I watched the Tampa weather buoy, about 112 miles NW of Tampa station 42036, for most of the trip and it reported the winds at 1 a.m. increasing to 14 mph with 2’ seas.  We had those 2 footers with an occasional 3 through the dark hours, 1 a.m. to 7 a.m. But the wind stayed pretty much on our port bow so we had very little rolling.  As we got in closer to shore, the seas and wind gradually dropped off. When we got east of Anclote Key and all the way to Marker 1 Marina, Dunedin, FL we had calm seas and light and variable wind.  And it was 75 degrees and clear skies. What a nice ending!

Overall it was an ok crossing. 
We crossed with 4 others all staying within 2 miles. There were at least 8 – 10 other boats also crossing.  So it was a busy night. Our 5 boats checked in on the radio to each other every half hour, and I passed the buoy weather each hour as well.  One of our buddy boats was Ta Ta, 27’ Albin. Their ride was a little rough but they made it just fine.  Kathy and I feel this crossing is our biggest hurdle on this adventure.  We are quite happy to have it behind us and also that it went well. You can wish for calmer seas etc. but for this time of year I think we did quite well.

So today, Monday, we will clean the boat a bit, rent a car and drive home.  I will come back several times to do maintenance etc. on Serenity.  Serenity has served us quite well and deserves a little TLC.  Oh yes, I logged 28.1 engine hours and 194.6 miles on the crossing.  It took us 27 hours to cross from marina to marina, the extra engine hour is due to my having to wait to get to the pump out and refuel when I arrived.

At Marker One Marina we waited for our turn at the fuel dock

We ended our day with a champagne toast before enjoying a dinner which
was put on by a generous and thoughtful couple who had made the
crossing the week before. L-R: Dan, Angie of Seahorse, Mimi, Jim,
of Perfect Balance, Roger, Mary on TA TA, Kathy, John,
Becky, Mark from Mara Beel, Jean & Mel of Dovekie

 After a good night's sleep we packed up a car and made the 2 hour drive to our home. It was very hard to say good bye to all the wonderful people we bonded with on the loop but we were welcomed by a sweet sign on our front door from our great neighbors.

We will be taking a break during the holidays and are excited about having our family gather for Christmas week. We are at about the halfway point on our great Loop Trip. Check back in to this blog when we resume our  journey in mid-January and head for the Florida Keys.

 

Captain’s Log November 29 & 30, 2014

Departed: Water Street Hotel and Marina at Apalachicola, FL 10:00 a.m. Saturday
Engine hours: 28.1 hrs. Total for trip: 495.6 hrs.
Actual hours: 27 hr.
Miles covered 194.4   Total for trip: 3463
Arrived: Mile Marker One Marina, Dunedin, FL 1:00 p.m. Sunday
Wx: Calm, cool morning on departure, see above for details